In 1994 in the Ardèche region of France, Jean-Marie Chauvet and two friends explored an almost inaccessible cave close to the immense natural stone bridge of the Pont d’Arc. Here they made dramatic discoveries of paintings, engravings, and prints that had been forgotten for thousands of years.
Lit by the beam from a head-torch, lines of animals loomed out of shadows across the limestone walls of the cave – lions and bears, mammoths, bison and horses, all woven together across the fissures of the rock along with mysterious geometric symbols. And, immortalised in the clay, prints of human hands and feet provided a spiritual link to those ancient artists.
The discovery of the Chauvet Pont-d’Arc cave astonished the worlds of both archaeology and art history, not just because of its amazing animal paintings (425 individual animals from 14 species) but also for their quality, the techniques used and their immense age. The style is almost reminiscent of Picasso - spare, simple, but loaded with feeling and meaning. Inevitably it makes us wonder about the skill and sophistication of our European ancestors, who were capable of imagination and activity way beyond what was necessary for mere survival.
Most of the paintings date to around 32,000 years ago, to the Ice Age and Paleolithic Aurignacian man - homo sapiens sapiens – who had essentially the same brains and DNA as ourselves.
But some of the images which adorn the cave walls were painted 36,000 years ago – a figure that’s hard to get your head around till you realise that as much time has passed between us and the prehistoric paintings in Lascaux as evolved between Chauvet and Lascaux – a staggering 18,000 years each.
Carbon dating has revealed that the Chauvet-Pont d’Arc cave was itself in use for around ten thousand years, until an earthquake caused falling rock to seal off its entrance almost completely. It is still hard to access, located close to the top of a limestone cliff in the timeless area of the Pont d’Arc bridge over the Ardeche river.
But this cave is important – it speaks to us of what it means to be human and may oblige us to reconsider our perceptions. Recognising that, the French government and Ardèche authorities are in the process of building a replica of the cave, where visitors can experience the temperature, atmosphere and the art itself. Archaeologists describe the cave as like a cathedral and everyone who enters it reports a feeling of being in a powerfully spiritual place. The cave was never lived in, it was clearly a centre for ritual and creative expression, so the plan is to allow visitors to experience that sense of awe and mystery.
The replica is part of a major visitor centre that will open in June 2015. In March this year I had the privilege of a preview of the site and I was really impressed – especially by the location, artistry and environmental sustainability of the scheme. Here I share an image of work in progress meticulously recreating the cave structure using metal frames, wire, plastic mesh and cement.
The French government has applied for UNESCO World Heritage status for the Chauvet-Pont d’Arc cave replica and a decision will be made very soon.
Meanwhile, if you’re visiting the region this summer, take a trip to the village of Vallon Pont d’Arc, where you can visit a small museum close to the square, devoted to the cave. This was created soon after the cave’s discovery and, although quite small, it gives you good information, images and a fascinating video.
Next month I’ll post an update on the UNESCO decision, all the latest information and more about the cave and its art.
I’ve moved on from phase one of our renovation now and am taking a little ‘building’ sabbatical pending phase 2.
Of course, that means engaging in the more enjoyable pastime of ‘dressing’, or finishing, our home.
It’s only the very lucky who get a clean sweep at this, buying everything new for their second, third or, in our case, umpteenth home. Actually most people have to make do with existing furniture and we’re no exception.
Our last two houses were new-builds so a far cry from the stone house we have now. Luckily my taste has always been a tad eclectic so I’m comfortable with mixing new and old to get the result I’m after.
In fact, the French are traditionally expert at this sort of styling. They pass furniture down through generations, rarely throw things away and nonchalantly re-purpose, re-cycle and up-cycle.
So, taking a leaf from their book (incentivized by a severe lack of funds) I set about a little of the same. I’m sharing a few of my projects in the hope of inspiring more of the same.
Re-cycling - my best bargain
I’ve been amazed at the prices in the brocantes these days, no longer the bargain hunters dream as canny owners have realised the demand for French antique finds. However, a bargain is still to be had and my pretty little shelf was forlornly shoved at the back of the shop, broken, dusty and ready for the dechetterie. Monsieur was a little incredulous to find some interest in it and gladly offloaded it for 10 euros when I bought a rather cute wall lamp. Some wood glue, a good clean and a lick of Annie Sloan and it was ready for the bathroom wall.
Re-cycling a well-loved item
An old favourite, a little decorative mirror, has been with me for many years. It started off gold, was transformed in white, had a spell in shocking pink, back to white and now black to go with that cute shelf. I’m rather proud of this given it was £20 in a sale nearly 20 years ago. I think I’ve had my money’s worth don’t you?
Re-purposing – a bit of a luxury but what the hell
Spotted on a friends website, a gorgeous chinoiserie umbrella stand was a must have. The colours and design were spot on for my ensuite but, as strange as I am, even I know there is no need for an umbrella stand in the bathroom – after all it would make a shower seem a little unnecessary. But it does make a stunning bin.
Upcycling – two items in to one
One pretty chair with the wrong coloured material and one rug which I love but can’t leave on the floor as the dogs think I’ve given them the very best bed. Bingo, a shaggy chair that gives a wonderful texture against the stone and adds a bit of rock-chic alongside a feather lampshade.
Re-purposing – am I repeating myself, it may be the wine!
20 minutes down the road from Buzet, we bought 6 bottles when we first got here and were given them in this box. The wine didn’t last long but the box did. What do you think of my new bread-bin?
New purchase (ok sometimes we have to succumb!)
Of course, there are times when you simply can’t find what you are looking for but, don’t forget, there is a world of re-cycled products out there so hunt around for something original and unique. This frame from www.sujiivana.co.uk is made from recycled wood collected by the homeless of Capetown so scores well for providing income to those less fortunate, cleaning the streets of Capetown and re-cycling a waste product.
The secret to this method of furnishing your home…do as the French do. Buy only items you love for their shape, texture or design and remember that colours, material and even its purpose can be changed. That way they’ll be with you for a very long time!
Well, I hope I’ve inspired you to give Ikea a miss when attempting to furnish your home cheaply – there is so much more satisfaction in saving stuff destined for the dechetterie and getting yourself a unique item to boot.
Happy re-cycling!
Our latest competition was held with Third Age Matters, the magazine of the University of the Third Age, and Denise Roberts of Northumberland is the delighted winner.
Denise's prize is a week's stay at the beautiful holiday cottage at La Mirande, a converted farmhouse in a stunning, peaceful location in the Ardeche with views to both the Alps and the Massif Central.
Denise takes a French conversation class, so can't wait to share her delight at being the winner with her group – and practising her language skills. “My husband and I know and love the Ardeche, having visited some years ago, when hardly anyone knew about the area. We are thrilled at the prospect of returning.”
The University of the Third Age (U3A) movement is an unique and exciting organisation which provides, through local groups, life-enhancing and life-changing opportunities. Retired and semi-retired people come together and learn together, not for qualifications but for its own reward: the sheer joy of discovery!
The magazine Third Age Matters is published five times each year and contains opinion, events and local news from U3As up and down the country.
La Mirande combines luxury and contemporary colour with dramatic timber and stone period features. As well as the self-contained cottage, it offers two large B&B suites with table d'hote. See more about La Mirande cottage and B&B
The Aude is a small area that seems to encapsulate all the best of France. A hot, sunny climate, miles of low-key Mediterranean coastline, the majestic Pyrenees mountains, vast vineyards producing iconic wines, colourful markets selling luscious local produce, picturesque farmhouses to stay in – oh and the capital, Carcassonne, is one of France’s most romantic historic cities.
No wonder the Aude is our region of the month. Located in southern central France, in Languedoc-Roussillon, it’s a popular choice for holidays and we have a really good selection of accommodation, from seaside apartments to chateau gites and family villas in peaceful countryside.
This is Cathar country, so there is plenty of history to discover. Amongst a rich heritage are medieval castles, ‘Citadelles du vertige’ (literally ‘head spin’ citadels), sites of the 13th century Cathars who were so persecuted, romanesque abbeys and cloisters, prehistoric caves and the Roman city of Narbonne.
This territory is ideal for viticulture and the Aude contains the biggest and oldest vineyard of France. Fitou, Corbières and Cabardès are among the wine making areas and, when it comes to food to accompany such delights, gastronomy here has been taken to the level of a fine art.
Aude offers a wide range of outdoor activities in spectacular and varied landscapes, not least walks under century-old trees bordering the famous Canal du Midi, the miracle of engineering that forms a 360-km network of navigable waterways that are such fun to cruise. Then there is hiking, water sports, cycle touring, mountain biking and cave exploration.
Carcassonne really is a must-see. Once the inspiration for ‘The Sleeping Beauty’, the city lies inside imposing medeival ramparts with 52 towers and is a maze of narrow streets, memorable views, fascinating sites and reminders of Cathar history. When you get tired of sightseeing, just wander into one of the 50 restaurants located inside the central Citadel area.
In July the city celebrates two popular festivals - the Festival de La Cite and the Festival de la Bastide. The first features concerts of classical and pop music by world renowned artists, while the second combines opera and dance, music, theater and performance, both traditional and experimental.
See more about the region and find your perfect holiday accommodation at our complete guide to the Aude.
Canal du Midi photo by Paul Palau, Aude Tourism
Exhausted by my recent endeavors with the ceilings (see my previous blog) my builder forced me to turn my attentions to the next looming problem - the kitchen floor.
Not lucky enough to have acquired a house with a lovely original floor I began to consider my options. Of course the disgusting lino had long since been removed and revealed floorboards. Not your lovely aged and rutted wooden planks but thin, uneven, untreated and frankly quite forlorn looking boards.
Summer time in France is a wonderful experience whichever region you choose to visit. It is of course much warmer in the south and south west than the north but wherever you go it is so beautiful and will want you coming back for more.
June is an excellent time to visit France as the weather is warmer yet not too hot and many visitors and French alike will be heading for the beaches along the French coastline. It is not yet as busy as you will find in the coming months so if you bear this in mind, it may be a better choice to holiday in June than later on. Everywhere it seems people are so relaxed and enjoying the French way of life.
Of course there are many other activities if France apart from making sand castles and soaking up the sun on the beach. Walking is a favourite pastime for many people and who can blame them when there is such a wonderful country to explore. One of the best ways of seeing France is on foot where you get the ‘feel’ for a place much better than you do from your vehicle as you pass through.
It seems that these days more and more of us are taking less exercise than we need, so if you want a relaxing holiday with a little exercise this is just one way of getting that much needed exercise whilst enjoying yourselves too.
Picnics are a great way of enjoying the scenery in France and having a fabulous time too. You will have the best choice in the world when it comes to food for your picnic. French salads with the season’s choice of greens are fabulous along with the best cheeses, ham, olives, fruit and wines. Now I can’t think of an excuse not to have a picnic once you have packed all these food items into your basket, it’s what summer days are all about.
One of my favourite places for a picnic in Nice in the South of France is at Le Château where there is a public park high up on the hillside overlooking the old town of Nice or Vieux Nice as it is known. It’s a great place to take a stroll and the views are truly stunning, taking in the old town, the port and the sea.
Le Château was able to withstand a Franco-Turkish siege in 1543; subsequent French assaults in 1691 (Nice was part of Italy in that period) and again in 1705 were more successful. Then in 1706 Louis X1V ordered it to be demolished. It was later used as a burial ground and in 1821 the city council had the idea of making it into a public park which in was laid out as it is now from 1861.
It really is a beautiful place and if you want to explore this area there are steps leading from the bottom at the end of Rue Rossetti but if you cannot manage them, there is no need to worry, you will find a lift, the ascenseur, near the sea front end.
Once at the top you will have several kilometres of easy walking pathways which lead to the medieval cathedral, an orientation table, a cooling cascade which is simply beautiful as well as a café and a children’s play area.
I never tire of visiting Le Chateaux and of course when we do visit, I always take a picnic – having bought our French food from the small shops and markets in Vieux Nice, the old town.
One form of exercise which is pleasant to watch is the French game of boules. I love watching the locals playing this game; it is for all ages and is a good way of exercise as well as fun. It’s a very social activity and you may want to try it for yourself. It is called pértanque in this region and is most enjoyable to watch or take part in.
It is said that the game of pértanque originated in Lyon around 1894, called Boule Lyonnais but the game at that time involved some difficult manoeuvres as you had to step out of a drawn circle as far as possible with one foot. This of course was difficult if you had a physical disability which was the case with a man called, Jules Lenoir in the French town of La Ciotat in the South of France. He devised new rules to allow for this problem and laid out the rules for Pétanque in 1910.
It can be played on any flat piece of land, gravel, dirt, grass or sand and the goal is to throw metal balls about the size of an orange so that they roll as close to another smaller wooden ball called a cochonnet, which translates to ‘piglet’, or jack at the same time you are standing in a starting circle with both feet on the ground.
You will see people playing this game in most places in the south and southwest and they will usually have some form of fast food with them whilst they play – yes, I did say fast food, but in this case it is usually a tasty healthy snack in the form of a ‘Pan Bagna’.
This is really the equivalent of taking a Salade Niçoise and making it into a quick and easy French fast food. It consist of a crusty French roll packed with the ingredients you would find in a traditional Salade Niçoise and believe me it is truly wonderful.
It is one of the most popular fast foods you can buy in this area of France and although I dislike the term fast food as this conjures up ideas of today’s unhealthy fast foods, in this instance it is fast and fantastic in terms of healthy and tasty.
So for this month’s recipe I thought you may like to have a quick and easy French food that you can make for yourself and family whether on holiday in France or at home wherever you are – it really is a good choice and will make for a great picnic, snack or a light meal at any time you fancy.
Originally it would have been made with bread that was stale and was just another way of the French housewife being excellent in managing the food she had in her larder. Nothing was ever thrown away but I’m sure you will agree she has a winner with this recipe.
Usually the ingredients for this recipe will largely consist of whatever is in season at the time but this is a guide for you to follow and you can vary it according to what you have available and what you like or dislike, just as the French housewife would do. An example here is that if you don’t like anchovies, you can simply use tuna, or for a vegetarian choice, simply omit the fish.
The recipe here is for a guide only, simply vary the salad to what is available but it should contain olives and of course the olive oil.
Pan Bagnat
( For Four People)
Method
Finally, layer the inside of the bread roll with the sliced tomatoes, the pepper, radish, onions, egg, olives and finish with the anchovies.
Drizzle with lemon juice and olive oil.
You can wrap them in cling film or foil and put in the refrigerator overnight and they will be ready for your picnic. They seem to improve if left this way as the bread becomes soaked with the olive oil which is what is how they should be.
So whether you are on holiday or at home, I hope you enjoy this tasty treat.
Bon appétit
We all know that France is well known for its wonderful cuisine which includes many vegetable dishes as well as the more famous and traditional meat, fish, cheese and poultry dishes.
Wherever you go in France you will not be disappointed when it comes to its food whether it is from the cuisine of the best hotels to the more humble and inexpensive French cafes and bistros, the food is always the very best of quality.